This part of our guide focuses on surfing, a water sport or activity where a surfer uses a board to ride on the face of a moving wave of water.

Surfing originated in ancient Polynesia. Indigenous people rode wooden boards on ocean waves, a practice particularly prevalent in Hawaii, where the activity had a spiritual and cultural significance.

In Hawaii, it was known as he'e nalu, which translates to "wave sliding." European explorers, including Captain James Cook, wrote of it in the late 18th century.

However, it wasn't until the early 20th century that surfing became popular globally, particularly among beachgoers in California, Hawaii, and Australia. Duke Kahanamoku, an Olympic swimmer from Hawaii, played a significant role in popularizing the sport beyond the Pacific.

Experienced surfers recognize the various wave types that will affect the surfing experience. Beach breaks are waves that break on a sandy bottom, creating a foamy, whitewater-filled ride. Popular spots for beach breaks include Huntington Beach, California, and Byron Bay, Australia. Reef breaks are waves that break over coral reefs or rocky formations, producing a more consistent and powerful ride. Uluwatu, Bali, and Nusa Dua, Indonesia, are well-known reef breaks. Point breaks are waves that break along a sandy or rocky point, often featuring long, smooth rides. Point breaks are common in Trestles, California, and Mentawais Islands, Indonesia.

Waves are created by the wind transferring energy to the ocean's surface. The size and shape of waves depend on wind speed, duration, and the distance over which the wind blows (fetch).

Surfboards are designed to float through the use of buoyant material, typically foam or fiberglass. The shape and volume of the board affect its maneuverability and stability.

As the wave moves towards the shore, the water beneath it is compressed, creating an upward force, which lifts the surfer and the board, allowing them to ride along the wave's face.

To ride a wave effectively, a surfer must maintain momentum and balance. This involves shifting their weight and adjusting their stance to align with the wave's movement and contours.

For beginners, learning to surf involves understanding a few key concepts, beginning with choosing the right equipment. Beginners usually start with a soft-top longboard, which provides stability and buoyancy. Surfers will paddle out past the breaking waves to reach the lineup, where surfers wait for the perfect wave. Next, they will position themselves correctly on the board, lying flat with their wait centered on the board. When a suitable wave approaches, they will paddle towards the shore with powerful, even strokes. As the wave lifts the board, they will push up with their arms and swiftly bring their feet under them to stand in a crouched position. Balance is maintained by bending the knees and keeping the body weight centered, adjusting as needed to follow the wave's path.

Surfers perform various maneuvers to showcase their skills and adapt to wave conditions, and these maneuvers have names. A cutback is a sharp turn back towards the wave's breaking part, allowing the surfer to stay in the most powerful part of the wave. The first turn made at the base of the wave after dropping in is known as a bottom turn. It sets the surfer up for further maneuvers. Riding over the top of a breaking wave and then reentering the wave face is known as a floater. Positioning oneself inside the hollow part of a breaking wave is known as a tube ride or as a barrel. Launching off the wave's lip into the air and landing back on the wave or water is an aerial.

Surfing also requires beaches with surfable waves. Hawaii, where surfing began, continues to be one of the most popular surfing destinations. Famous spots include Oahu's North Shore, particularly Pipeline, Sunset Beach, and Waimea Bay. Australia has also been a popular destination for surfers for a long time, including Bells Beach, Gold Coast, and Margaret River. Bali, in Indonesia, has Uluwatu, Lombok, Nusa Dua, and Padang Padang, which offer consistent waves. Nazaré, in Portugal, is known for its large waves, while Ericeira and Peniche offer great conditions for all levels. California, one of the places where the modern era of surfing was born, remains a popular surfing destination. Huntington Beach, Trestles, Malibu, and Mavericks are legendary surfing spots. Jeffrey's Bay, in South Africa, is renowned for long, fast rides.

For those who can't afford the time or cost of travel, artificial surf parks are becoming increasingly popular. These parks offer a controlled environment where surfers can ride consistent waves without the unpredictability of ocean conditions. Their popularity is also driven by their ability to provide year-round surfing opportunities, regardless of weather conditions.

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